National Parc at Andasibe

Once in the national park, hired a guide, who spoke halting but understandable english, and wore a fake Cal sweatshirt. Most important, she had a great eye for wildlife. Found the big lemurs, called Indri, right away, and even though they mostly stay high in the canopy they're very impressive. "Like a 4-year-old in a panda suit," I've read, and it's quite descriptive. Their calls are loud, carrying over a mile, and you hear them from time to time all morning. (Here's a longer sound sample; sorry for the low volume.)

There are also plenty of "common brown" lemurs, which come close enough for a good zoom shot, plus a few of a nocturnal variety that slept high in the trees, well protected.

Great 4-hour hike, beautiful scenery, cool clear air, deep quiet. And way too inexpensive: $12 park entrance, only $4 for the guide! Certainly the guides deserve more.